SRT-4 Owners of Alberta

Is there a secret to taking of the hub dust cap on the rears on these things? i think i got a seized wheel bearing but the dust cap has a deathgrip. just grab a chizle and start clobbering> or is it some twist off type?

Chizzle it off. It shouldn't take too much. You might want to try a large slotted screw driver first. Give it a couple taps with a hammer and it should start to come off.

i ended up having to use some wd40 to get past the epic rust. i smacked a little too hard on the screwdriver and it poked thru, guess ill get a new one. but i got the fucker off. now... of the top of your heads, does anyone know the size of the socket i need to pull the wheelbearing and roter off? that sucker is big.

32mm I think, I will double check the FSM though.

FSM is smarter than me apprently. I cannot find it. I looked through the sections, for both front and rear, and found nothing.

It does say to not reuse the nut and to tighten the new one to 160 ft lbs.

Found it. 1.25" or 31.75 mm...

PS: +3 post count for one answer. Someday I will catch EDISKRAD EHT....

awsome, thanks. i had another thought since i pulled the dust cover off. after 4 months of storage it seems the rear passanger wheel is siezed. the bearings seem to look ok after pulling the dust cap. so i think the parking brake is siezed. I cant seem to take the rotor off after removing the break calipers. do i need to remove the wheel hub nut in order for the rotor to come off? also if the parking brake is siezed do i just smack the shit out of the roter till it comes loose? dont want to break anything since ive never taken a rotor off before.

For the rear?!?!? Are you sure you aren't thinking about the front? (your picture looks like the front) If they are a tapered set, like most rear bearings I have seen, I use needle nose pliers to tighten the nuts. Just tight enough that there is a bit of drag/preload on the bearing but not tight enough that the wheel won't spin easily.

To derrrrr...... There should be a little rubber plug on the rear of the hub. Take it out and you can reach in the "window" with a small screw driver to loosen the adjuster for the e-brake. It's possible the brake is siezed but if it has worn too far then the pad will be sitting in a groove that will keep the rotor from coming off. It is terribly hard to describe without pics so if anyone can do better then chime in.


EDIT: Didn't read the whole thing but it looks like this thread has the info....It is for tightening the e-brake so go the opposite direction to loosen.

http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f75/how-parking-e-brake-adjustment-368008/

yup i found that one, ill be trying the wd40 method into the hole and encouraging it with a hammer tonight, the hub nuts are the same on front and back as far as i know, but i thionk they will be staying on this time anyways. im sure it's the e-brake now.

The picture is the front, but both nuts are the same size.

Also, the front requires 180 ft lbs.

I am sure that it requiress 160 ft lbs.

Ya, nevermind. It isn't how I thought and the nut torques up to a shoulder. As always, the non-SRT4 owner strikes again.

It doesn't crush the bearing, I looked at that too when I saw the torque value.

The engineers strike again

The one on the right is what I'm used to where as the SRT4 is on the left.

Tighten hard by and back off that style. Then you are sure the bearings are not hung up a tiny bit on the shaft and that your dust seal is all the way on as well. You can easily drive away and have them too loose.

Dammed engineers.

Right so one of my piece of shit cars ... has this problem where it makes noise (a whining repetitive annoying noise - and no, I doubled checked, it's not my coming from my wife) and it's not engine related. I can change the RPM or just coast in neutral and the noise is still going on. So it's actually a wheel bearing problem...right? Piece of shit car.